The train is an old, rickety set of coaches that certainly dates back to the British rule here prior to 1948. The ride is very bumpy and you have to hold onto the rails for dear life if you plan to get up or move around. I am always amazed at the simple but finely executed skills that so many lay people possess here, such as being able to not only deftly handle oneself while walking around the train, but also to carry a hot tank of tea, pour it, take bills and coins for payment, and return accurate change. This sounds simple but after you encounter the violent tossing and churning of the trains here, especially when the train is packed with people and children and their bags, you'll understand that this is no easy feat.
This kid and his friends were trying to impress us with their dangerous acrobatics routine of hanging out of the moving train. Don't try this at home, for sure. At times, I couldn't watch I was so nervous for their safety...
The train chugged along, spewing black thick smoke and churning out food vendor after drink vendor, men walking down the narrow aisles and passing baskets through open windows at station stops, each hawker selling something more delicious than the next. We enjoyed the increasingly breathtaking landscape unfold as the climate peeled off layers of sticky heat and the altitude began to climb. Imaad broke out his acoustic guitar as soon as we had enough room, and brought smiles to many as he sang and we passed the time gazing out the windows. After about 9 hours on the train, our butts ached and we were glad to exit at the last stop on the line: Ella.
Imaad at work, rocking out on the train.
The train weaves through the mountainous countryside, with rows of tea and tall trees flanking the sides.
Enjoying a cup of hot Ceylon tea in its place of origin!
We got off the train and looked around us. Although it was beginning to mist and already dark out, what we did look around to find was a bit surprising; my two friends were the only Sri Lankans disembarking--everyone else was white. Because we were traveling 3rd class with only Sri Lankans, we didn't notice all the foreigners on board. Little did we know that we were surrounded by other tourists, also beckoning to the Lonely Planet call to Ella. Susa and Imaad had visited Ella before in the year, but had not experienced the heavy influence of the tourism dollar and its double-edged sword. Let's just say we found it impossible to get a reasonable deal in Ella and felt like finding a more non-touristy spot, so we decided to spend one night only and head on to Badulla, a neighboring town, the next day.
Here are some highlights from Ella:
Welcome to Ella!
This is what they were talking about with that whole gorgeous scenery thing...
A woman and her grandchild walking through the tea plantations in Ella.
This man sold jewelry made from dried seeds, and was nice enough to draw us a map in the sand directing us to Little Adam's Peak. Adam's Peak is a very holy pilgrimage site for all religions in Sri Lanka, a tall and pointed mountain I plan to climb when my friends Rob and Noel come in April. Ella has designated one of their mountains as Little Adam's Peak--gaining more traction from the notoriety of the namesake than any other major resemblance between the two. All in all, it was a refreshing walk with nothing but green, lush views all around.
The rather tenement housing afforded to the tea plantation workers here on Little Adam's Peak in Ella. This photo mostly highlights the crude pieces of corrugated metal often used to shelter the poor here in Sri Lanka and the world over.
Terraced agriculture in Ella, a view from Little Adam's Peak.
We chatted with this tiny but strong man at the top of Little Adam's Peak, discussing his cows and the grass he was collecting for them, the tea-picking work of his wife, and the difficulty of balancing low wages with rising costs. He said their family income is not enough for even the basics at times, as he just recently sold a gold ring in order to buy school supplies for his kids. Even though we left before his grass cutting was finished, he still managed to catch up to us at the bottom of the mountain.
Imaad was asked to stage an impromptu concert while we descended Little Adam's Peak. Being from a Tamil-speaking family, Imaad performed a Tamil language song along with a couple other tunes, all of which these folks thoroughly enjoyed hearing.
Local elections are slated to occur this March 17, so posters, banners and garlands of colored plastic like these above are popping up everywhere.
Stay tuned for the next installment of Hill Country--coming soon!
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